Pałac Biskupa Erazma Ciołka

What to expect

The Bishop Erazm Ciolek Palace at Kanonicza 17 is the National Museum in Krakow’s branch for old Polish art. The residence itself, built in the early sixteenth century for Bishop Erazm Ciołek, a diplomat and patron of the arts, is part of the show: Gothic and Renaissance portals, vaulted rooms and a courtyard frame the collection.

There are three permanent exhibitions. “Art of Old Poland, 12th-18th century” runs from Romanesque and Gothic sculpture through guild painting and altarpieces to Sarmatian portraits - much of the best Polish medieval art outside the Veit Stoss altarpiece hangs here. The second, “Orthodox Art of the Old Polish Republic”, presents icons and church furnishings from the eastern lands of the former Commonwealth, a collection with few equals in Poland. A third display, “Krakow Within Reach”, rounds things off. This is a quiet museum that rewards concentration: no multimedia, nothing aimed at children, but a first-rate medieval collection you will often have almost to yourself. Labels are subdued; if your Polish art history is thin, go slowly, as the objects carry the story.

Visiting in practice

Crowds are rare even in high season - this is one of the calmest branches of the National Museum. Allow one to two hours for the two main exhibitions. Tickets cost 18 PLN (reduced 14 PLN, family 36 PLN, pupils and students 1 PLN), and on Tuesdays the permanent exhibitions are free. Last entry 20 minutes before closing; closed Mondays. Buy tickets at the desk on arrival - queues are not an issue here.

Getting there

Kanonicza is Krakow’s oldest and arguably most beautiful street, right at the foot of Wawel Hill. From the Main Square it is a 10-minute walk down Grodzka; the nearest tram stop is Wawel on Stradomska street. The visit combines naturally with a stroll along the Royal Route.

Nearby

A hundred metres on rises Wawel Royal Castle, and one street over, on Poselska, is the Archaeological Museum of Krakow. To round out a Young Poland day, add the Józef Mehoffer House on Krupnicza.